“Where is our place in this universe, where dead stars shine a light upon us, light that was emitted before all of this here was build?” ― Ryan Gelpke, Peruvian Days
Many of our friends had been to Peru, and their comments about their trips were fascinating. So, for this year’s birthday trip, we decided to gift ourselves our first journey to Peru.
We grew up watching Peruvian TV shows, as it was the only international television broadcasting we managed to access. We affectionately called it PerubĂłlica, a playful mix of PerĂş and parabĂłlica (those big rounded antennas). My favorite shows were about their cuisine. As adults, we’ve been fortunate to enjoy Peruvian food in Bogotá. Nonetheless, we really wanted to taste authentic Peruvian flavors, prepared the right way. That’s why we decided to make this first trip to Peru a gastronomic experience.
Accommodation
Lima has several places to stay, but as first-time visitors, we wanted to choose a nice spot. We considered San Isidro, but since it’s not very tourist-oriented, we opted for Miraflores instead. There’s a wide range of lodging options, but we always look for places that include breakfast. This time, we wanted something cozier, so we chose JosĂ© Antonio, which has several locations in Lima. We decided to stay at Hotel JosĂ© Antonio Deluxe (Calle Bellavista #133 – Miraflores, Lima, 0801). The quality-price ratio was very convenient, as we paid around $350 for four nights. The staff was professional and kind, the hotel was extremely clean, and it offered amenities like a gym and a pool. The room was also very comfortable.
2025-07-14
The Arrival
We headed to El Dorado, Bogotá’s international airport, on Monday the 14th at 3:00 a.m. to take the Bogotá–Lima flight. We arrived at 9:00 a.m. at the new Jorge Chávez International Airport in Callao.
After going through customs, we headed to our hotel; the trip took about 50 minutes. Our first impression was a bit strange, it seems to be a cultural thing to honk constantly, for everything and nothing.
We checked in upon arrival at the hotel, and the staff kindly stored our luggage while we went for a walk through Miraflores to explore the neighborhood and find something to eat. We walked from our hotel along the MalecĂłn.
As incredible as it sounds, it was our first time seeing the Pacific Ocean. When we arrived at “El Beso” (The Kiss) monument, known locally as “El Parque del Amor” (The Park of Love), officially called Alberto Andrade Carmona Park, we saw many couples hanging around, of course, kissing. We lingered there to admire the ocean, though I’m sure no one believed we were there just for the view. The main pink statue, portraying a couple kissing, suggested we’re there for it.
The Lunch
It was around 1:00 p.m. We had walked several blocks through the southern part of Miraflores and were starving. Since we hadn’t made lunch reservations, we headed to the Larcomar Shopping Mall. We quickly chose Popular, a restaurant with fair prices and a selection of familiar dishes. We ordered some rice-based meals, accompanied by Cusqueña beer and Inca Kola, the national beer and soda.
The Dinner
After a well-deserved afternoon rest, we got ready for dinner. We went to Punto Azul, we didn’t have a reservation for this one either, but the staff was very kind and accommodated us in a nice spot.
We ordered Ceviche de Pescado y Pulpo (Fish and Octopus Ceviche): traditional ceviche accompanied by tender slices of octopus, served with Leche de Tigre (Tiger’s Milk), a flavorful blend of fish and lime, alongside sweet potato, fried plantain, cilantro, and corn; and Causa Acevichada: causa topped with avocado slices, acevichada sauce, and served with fish ceviche and crispy squid. We had Chicha Morada and another Cusqueña beer.
I met a friend, and after dinner, we headed to his place to chat and get his recommendations for restaurants and activities for the upcoming days. Nico and Andrea, if you’re reading this, thank you for being such amazing hosts and wonderful friends.
2025-07-15, The Birthday
The Breakfast
The hotel offered plenty of options, so we basically had the same breakfast every day: watermelon, melon, pineapple, scrambled eggs, a few slices of bacon, cheese, small bread loaves, mini pancakes, and… coffee.
First City Tour Day
We bought a 48-hour sightseeing city tour. Our idea was to cover the longest distances possible while visiting historical sites and places of interest. This way, we saved on transportation and avoided the hassles of using public transit.
This first day was reserved for visiting Lima’s Historical Center. It took about 40 minutes to reach the bus stop in the city center. After spending a few solid minutes getting a stuck eyelash out of my eye, we walked toward the City Hall to have a coffee and eat the sandwich (prepared at the hotel during breakfast 😇). We were completely unaware of the upcoming National Holidays celebrations, so we ended up witnessing the parades.
We headed toward the Museum and Catacombs of the Convent of St. Francis of Assisi. It’s an astonishing place with an impressive history, and I was disappointed I couldn’t capture any photos or videos, as taking them inside the convent is forbidden.
But experiencing it in person, walking on stone and wooden floors so old and valuable, breathing in the scent the walls exuded, seeing the library that holds books from medieval times, beholding every carved detail in the wood, and then finally descending into the catacombs, staring at some of the hundreds of skulls resting for eternity, it was an experience that truly puts your own life into perspective.
The weather that day was around 19ÂşC, but it felt colder due to the humidity and ocean breezes. So, we decided to buy a couple of handcrafted ponchos made of alpaca and llama wool. People were staring at us, possibly with envy, as we were no longer suffering from the chilly day. In the end, I think it was obvious we were just tourists enjoying the place.
We headed toward San MartĂn Square because that’s where the renowned Gran Hotel BolĂvar is located, a recommended spot to enjoy one of the best Pisco Sours in the city. It’s famous for hosting many Latin American personalities over the years.
We were sipping our Pisco Sours when I suddenly realized we were late to catch the City Tour bus back to Parque Kennedy, near our hotel. We drank so fast we got slightly inebriated, then ran to the bus stop. Luckily, we didn’t miss it, and honestly, we enjoyed the ride back to the hotel even more 🥴.
The Birthday Dinner
We had a reservation at Osaka’s Kero Lounge, a well-known and exclusive Nikkei and cocktail lounge. While waiting for our friends, we sipped on some water. We spent an unforgettable night with them.
The prices are quite high, but the Nikkei-style food was absolutely worth it, I regret nothing. It was the best sushi I’ve ever had in my entire life.
I indulged myself with the Koi Fig (The Singleton 12-year whisky, fig liqueur, amaro), while my wife had the Kumo de los Andes (14 Inkas vodka, Degollador, starfruit, lychee, jasmine, saline sake foam). I don’t quite recall what our friends ordered.
Then, we ate.
And just like that, the day came to an end. We went with our friends to their place for a marvelous night of close conversation and relaxing. It truly was one of those days I’ll never forget.
2025-07-16
Huaca Pucllana
Even though this trip was meant to be a gastronomic experience, it wouldn’t have been complete without visiting an archaeological site. We looked for something outside Lima but close enough to return without feeling completely wiped out. The most famous sites were at least four hours away, and the budget didn’t convince us to go for them. We thought that choosing one of those options, undoubtedly interesting, would require more time, time we simply didn’t have.
Our dilemma was clear: visit an archaeological site before leaving Peru, but close enough to keep enjoying Lima. Nothing seemed to be on our side, until we remembered Huaca Pucllana, an archaeological site inside Lima, which we had learned about during the first day’s tour. So we went for it.
Taking advantage of the City Tour Bus, we headed to Huaca Pucllana, just a short distance from Miraflores. We bought our tickets and waited for the guide to begin the tour.
During the visit, we learned that Huaca Pucllana was originally built by the Lima culture between the 3rd and 8th centuries A.D. It contains an astonishing amount of 5 million hand-made adobe bricks, arranged vertically to better withstand earthquakes, which are quite frequent in the Andes eastern part.
Over time, the site became buried under sand and soil, eventually forming a hill that locals used for motocross and biking. It wasn’t until about 40 years ago, when the municipality planned to build a road, that the bricks were accidentally rediscovered. Since then, the site has been gradually recovered and studied.
Here is a short summary of the cultures, the periods they lived in, and their contributions to the site:
| Culture | Period | Contribution |
|---|---|---|
| Lima | 3rd–8th centuries A.D. | Original construction |
| Wari | 8th–11th centuries A.D. | Secondary occupation |
| Ychsma | 12th–15th centuries A.D. | New funerary structures |
The tour is about two kilometers long, and you get to learn more about the ceremonies and the significance of sharks in the cosmology these cultures developed. The site served as a temple dedicated to the Divinity of the Sea, it was not a place for living, but rather a site for human sacrifices, mostly of women, though men and children were also sacrificed.
The bodies were placed in a seated position, covered with leaves, and wrapped in fabrics and ropes. These burial vaults were then sealed within the temple walls to rest for eternity.
In retrospect, I never cease to be amazed by the significance and importance of such a place within a modern city. I mean, we’re talking about pre-Inca cultures that existed before the Vikings, the Romans, the Goths, and the Visigoths, civilizations that already knew how to deal with earthquakes and the desert.
A Fast Lunch
After the morning rush and a long, tiring walk, we were starving. We took a shot in the dark by choosing a random restaurant, and we got lucky. The place was called El Misterio del Inka, where we ordered Lomo Fino Saltado (stir-fried beef loin with onions, tomato, and French fries, served with rice) and Fetuccini a la HuancaĂna con Lomo Fino Saltado (fettuccine with HuancaĂna sauce and stir-fried beef loin with onions, tomato, and French fries, served with rice). Fair prices for a good meal that truly saved our day.
We took a good rest after lunch because we still had several blocks to walk back to the hotel. We needed to relax, take a shower, and get ready for dinner.
Learning to Cook Peruvian Food and Prepare Pisco Sour
We headed near Parque Kennedy to meet our next host, a chef who was going to teach us how to prepare Ceviche Peruano and Pisco Sour. He has a studio that can host more than four people, but since it was just the two of us, he invited us to his home, which was cozier. I don’t recall exactly where it was located, but if my memory serves me right, it was in San Isidro.
After washing our hands, we put on our aprons and began following his instructions.
We began with a tuna tartare.
Then we prepared the avocado ceviche.
And… we also prepared the famous Pisco Sour
The Cats’ Park
Parque Kennedy is also known as El Parque de los Gatos (The Cats’ Park). It’s a beautiful park dedicated to caring for stray cats. People go there to feed them and spend time with them; we even saw people reading when, suddenly, a cat would climb onto their lap. It’s just a normal thing there, and the cats seem completely used to it. We absolutely loved it.
We also visited the Church of the Virgin Milagrosa, built in 1930 from a design by Polish architect Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski. It was lovely to see how the cats blended in with the people inside the church while the priest performed the mass. People couldn’t resist petting the cats.
Another day came to an end. We were exhausted, and we knew our trip was about to finish, so we really wanted to make the most of our Thursday. We headed back to the hotel to take a shower before going to sleep, but in the meantime, we watched TV.
It felt quite nostalgic, almost like watching television in the 90s. Something about the commercials was oddly familiar, and we couldn’t help but watch them, laughing and remembering how things were when we were kids. I don’t remember exactly when I fell asleep, but I do remember getting a nice rest that night.
2025-07-17
Barranco
After breakfast, we took an Uber to the Bridge of Sighs in Bajada de Baños. We were craving coffee, so we grabbed one to enjoy while eating the sandwiches we had prepared at the hotel. Then we wandered around, trying to get familiar with the area. We ended up getting a bit lost, so we decided to return to a spot we recognized.
Our second stop was an ice cream shop, HeladerĂa Speciale. It was more about the ambiance than the ice cream itself, it wasn’t anything extraordinary.
We walked down through the Bajada de Baños, but unfortunately, it was closed due to maintenance work by city workers. Nonetheless, we took the opportunity to snap some pictures and admire the local architecture and surroundings.
Fun story: while walking through Bajada de Baños, we saw what seemed to be a commercial shoot. I think it was for a store, maybe fashion-related. The concept was that a giant shopping bag, with the store’s logo on both sides, would walk down the alley. So this poor girl had to wear the bag costume with high heels while making her way down the rocky road.
She looked terrified of twisting an ankle. I was so stressed watching her that I walked so fast I almost left my wife behind, but at the same time, I couldn’t hide a slightly diabolical smile at the bizarre scene.
Well, after leaving the alley, we visited a local market. There were some nice handcrafted products, but we didn’t buy any, as we didn’t want to carry extra weight for the rest of the day. So, we headed back to Larcomar Mall. The walk was about 4.5 Km and took around two hours, as we stopped to take pictures and admire the different architectural styles and the amazing apartments along the entire MalecĂłn.
We even had to walk farther than necessary because the pedestrian bridge connecting Miraflores and Barranco wasn’t finished yet. Our friend told us the story behind it: the current government, whose color is blue, took over the project and painted the bridge blue to make sure people knew they were the ones “responsible” for its construction, despite the fact that it had been in the works for ages. A typical Latin American tendency, restart what the previous government began and take the credit for it.
The Lunch
After a long walk, we finally made it to Larcomar. This time, we tried another restaurant: Tanta, starting with a cold beer to help us relax. When it came time to order, I was quite undecided, so I went for Lomo Saltado again. My wife chose El Chanchito Taiwan (crispy pork belly with spicy honey, fried egg, cucumber salad, served over white chaufa).
We were full, so we finished with a coffee and sparkling water, chatting about how beautiful the day had been. We truly enjoyed the moment, watching people pass by and others dining around us. I still have a clear picture of it in my mind.
Prescription Cocktails
Back at the hotel, we got some rest and slept for about two hours, we were exhausted and needed to recharge our batteries for the night. It wasn’t going to be anything wild, but we’re not 20 anymore.
We met our friend at El Infusionista, a themed cocktail bar. It was amazing, everything revolved around medicine, doctors, nurses, syringes, transfusions, syrups, and more.
There were plenty of options to choose from, but I wasn’t going to miss the chance to order a Transfusion. The concept of having a red beverage poured over cold ice from a blood-transfusion-bag was simply genius. Besides, for every cocktail like this, the owners supported a foundation that promotes blood donation, a noble cause indeed.
We went back to the hotel with our friend, talking about how he grew up in Lima and listening to all his amazing stories. We lingered at the hotel entrance, sharing our plans for the upcoming months and realizing we would probably meet again at the next work on-site. Moments I’ll hold in my mind.
And so the day ended, and we knew that was it. The next day was going to be quite hectic, as we would be heading back home. So, why not enjoy one last good night in Lima, the gray city?
2025-07-18, The Last Day
We prepared our suitcases and took our time to enjoy a nice breakfast. Then we headed to the reception to check out. They stored our luggage while we went to the Surquillo Market, we wanted to buy a few things before leaving.
It didn’t seem like a big deal… at least that’s what I thought. But the market was amazing, and the food… man, I wish I were there right now.
After that, we grabbed something for lunch, returned to the hotel for our baggage, took an Uber, and headed to the airport. We waited several hours, and just like that, our trip to Peru came to an end. We arrived home tired but happy, promising ourselves that we would return for another adventure.